Produce & Flowers

nook&cranny farm

Owner: bob tuori

424 harford rd
Brooktondale, NY 14817
Tompkins County

daytime phone: (607) 539-6580
evening phone: (607) 539-6580
Web site:

Application Date: 2021-02-01

Applicant Details

Please briefly tell us why you are applying to be part of the Certified Naturally Grown program: *
believe in it! like being part of the greater small-farm community and happy to take part in another aspect.
Are you currently third party Certified for your produce operation by any other organization (Organic, Biodynamic, etc)? *
Have you ever been certified in the past? *
Have you ever been denied certification? *
How did you hear about Certified Naturally Grown? *
knew of it forever...
How did you learn to farm, and for how long have you been farming for market? What has prepared you to farm successfully according to CNG standards? *

General Farm Information

Farm Acreage you want listed as Certified Naturally GrownTM:
Total Farm Acreage you actually GROW on: *
Number of above acreage that you own: *
Number of above acreage that you lease: *
Do you have other acreage in "Conventional" Agricultural Systems? *
General Listed Acreage Breakdown
Veg Crops:
Fruit Crops:
Other Acreage:
forested steep hillside
Please check all items you grow and will market as Certified Naturally GrownTM *

Please Specify Any Other Items:
Please check all markets you grow for (this will be displayed on your farm profile to help potential buyers find you). *

Please Specify Other Markets:

Farmland Management and Practices

Primary Tillage System: *
BCS tractors with several implements: currently using in field 30 inch tiller with precision depth roller to minimize soil disturbance, smaller tiller in hoophouses. also have used power harrow for cultivation, and rotary plow for potato furrowing
Do you use Cover Crops? *
If yes, please list: *
rye and field pea in late summer and fall, occasional buckwheat and oats in summer. underseed brassicas with white clover. broadcast crimson clover and rye grass around perimeter of growing fields.
Do you use Compost? *
If yes, please note general sources (on farm, purchased complete, local grass clippings, local dairy, etc.): *
some on farm, mainly buy commercial composted manure from a dairy operation (~12-15 yards^3) and composted bedding from a local draft horse operation (~15-21 yards^3)
Please list application rates. Give a specific amount or range (for example: one to two tons per acre, ten wheelbarrow loads per 1,000 square feet, or 1-2 inches deep). Do not answer "varies". *
spread ~6 wheelbarrow loads on ~400 ft^2 beds for heavy feeding /long season veg
Do you use Manure? *
If yes, please note general sources (local dairy, horse farm, etc.): *
yes- given above, well composted manure from a dairy operation. sold as a commercial product.
Please list application rates. Give a specific amount or range (for example: one to two tons per acre, ten wheelbarrow loads per 1,000 square feet, or 1-2 inches deep). Do not answer "varies". *
same as given for compost above
What time of year do you apply the manure? *
early spring or late fall
Do you apply any non-composted Manure within 120 days of veg-crop harvesting? *
Please list any other brought in fertility sources that you use (specific rock powders, lime, soybean / alfalfa meal, specific purchased pre-mixes, etc)and how often it's used. If you indicate a name brand product, please also specify the ingredient/s. *
fertrell rock amendments and fertilizers: North Atlantic Kelp organic (Fertrell)- for brassicas Feathermeal- N-source for brassicas, alliums, cucurbits fertrell soil mineralizer- calcium and sulfur source, trace minerals and micronutrients. spread very lightly for heavy feeders (brassicas, alliums, cucurbits) Cal phos 0-3-0 18Ca- naturally mined source of phosphorus and calcium, spread on new beds prepped from pasture of recently cleared land super k 3-4-7 Sulfate of potash- used for fertigation of HH tomatoes, july and august] Allganic 15-0-2-used for fertigation of HH tomatoes, july and august Gypsum/calcium sulfate- Calcium source for HH tomatoes/peppers to minimize blossom end rot
Have any chemical fertilizers been applied to the fields you are seeking Certification for in the last three years (36 months)? *
Have any non-acceptable pesticides and/or herbicides been applied to these fields in the last 3 years? *
Do you use Professional Soil Testing services? *
Describe your primary weed problems AND methods of control. Do not answer "none". You MUST indicate either actual weed challenges and/or LIKELY challenges, and you must ALSO indicate how you manage (or would manage) them. If you indicate a product, also specify how often it's used. *
early spring- chickweed late spring- lambsquarters summer- purslane, amaranth, bindweed, galinsoga fall- chickweed hand weed with scuffle, colinear and wire hoes, on-schedule weekly, never let it get foothold. lots of labor hours spent on this
Describe your primary insect challenges AND methods of control. Do not answer "none". You MUST indicate either actual pest challenges and/or LIKELY challenges, and you must ALSO indicate how you manage (or would manage) them. If you indicate a product, also specify how often it's used. *
cucumber beetle is a problem in early summer- exclusion netting or agribon while vines are small, maybe one or two omri-approved pyganic sprayings soon after exposed vines are trellised. when mature and bearing fruit no more sprays. cabbage white larva, army worm both are significant problems from late summer into november- on brassicas mostly but occasional armywork is a problem on fall HH spinach. we cover every single brassica bed for the first month with either agribon or protectnet. when we take it off we spray BT weekly in from late august until early november. leaf miner on spinach and chard is a problem may- july. we cover all with protectnet throughout their entire growing season. fall spinach doesnt seem to need it swede midge is always a problem and probably the worst potential for disaster. there doesnt seem to be any well developed method for control but we have been doing the following for several years and have nto had more than minimal outbreaks: isolate all brassica seedlings in a special cold frame that is protectnet at all doors and side openings. we pyganic the surface of the seedlings twice a week from may until august when all are planted. they are immediately covered in the field and left covered for one month or until the tiny heads are beginging to develop for brocolli and cauli. brussels are left covered with 10 ft prtoectnet until late august. root maggot of carrots- season round issue, have developed a very strict sanitation method where any evidence of root maggot in carrots is immediately delivered to the farms hogs. they are eaten right away. carrots leaves are often delivered to pigs if they show signs on alternaria.
Describe your primary disease challenges AND methods of control. Do not answer "none". You MUST indicate either actual disease challenges and/or LIKELY challenges, and you must ALSO indicate how you manage (or would manage) them. If you indicate a product, also specify how often it's used. *
rotate like crazy! easiest thing anyone can do to minimize or prevent disease issues. grow tomoatoes only in HHs. dismantle and move tomato HHs every year to reduce leaf molds on tomatoes. if late blight takes hold on field potatoes, torch or mow down vines immediately, if tubers have already formed. leaf diseases on cucumber- dont bother growing late crops. harvest until mid august at latest and be done! rotate cuke vines far from other beds. we also trellis every bed of cukes to prevent wet leaves that promote disease. seems to help.
Please list the water source you use for crop irrigation. If source is public river, pond or lake, please note the name: *
well water mostly. have a significant rain collections system also that we use only for HH watering.
Are there any known contaminants in the irrigation water? *
Are you a maple producer who seeks to certify your sugarbush? *

Seeds, Transplants and Buffers

How do you select your seeds? CNG standards call for growers to make a good faith effort to locate organically grown seeds by contacting at least 3 major suppliers. *
buy from johnnies, fedco, a few items form harris, territorial, high mowing etc.
Do you purchase or grow using any Genetically Modified seeds? *
Do you use any chemically treated seeds in your operation? *
Do you grow your own transplants? *
Do you purchase potting soil, or do you mix your own on the farm? *
buy from greentree
What ingredients does your potting mix contain? If you purchase a mix, please also indicate which product. *
peat-light blend with coco, earthworm castings, and organic nutrients like bone char, sulfate of potash, vegetable protein such as peanut meal, and animal protein such as feather meal. Meets NOFA Standards
Are all of your transplants grown according to CNG standards, without synthetic fertilizers or wetting agents? *
If any transplants are not grown according to CNG standards, please list them here. (If they all are, put "N/A".) This produce may not be marketed as Certified Naturally Grown. *
Do you purchase any transplants from outside sources? *
Chemical/Spray Drift and Buffers:
Is there any likelihood of Chemical/Spray drift contamination of your fields? *
Do you have an adequate buffer to protect yourself from potential contamination? *
Please describe your buffer. Be as specific as possible. On all sides, how far is it from your crops to the next closest use (road, conventional crop, residential yard)? Be sure to specify what is grown on neighboring land that is in agricultural use. For example: To the north and east, a wooded area of at least 100 yards separates us from the neighbor's corn fields, to the south is a fallow field at least 100 yards deep separating us from the road, and to the west about 60 feet separates our crops from a field where conventional corn and soybeans are grown. *
my rectagular land is surrounded by forest and forested wetlands on two sides. a third side has an elderly neighbor. their house is about 100 ft from the closest beds. the forth side of the rectangle is roadfront. the clostest beds are abotu 50 feet from the road front. past of this has a hedge row of spruce trees. i rent some land across the road from my property (~1/2 an acre). the closest beds are also about 30 ft from the road


Please indicate your agreement with the following statements by checking the boxes.
I will not label, or in any way lead consumers to believe that produce not raised in accord with CNG standards is Certified Naturally GrownTM. *
I understand that I have to complete at least one (and hopefully more) Certification Inspection(s) of another farm in my area each year, and that the inspection will NOT be of the same farmer that inspected me. *
I have reviewed the Certified Naturally Grown certification standards, I understand them, and I will abide by them. I understand that if I have any questions I may contact CNG for clarification. *
You may use this space to tell us anything else you think we should know about your farm: