O-BEE-X HoneybeesOwner: Ken Randall
corner of NC 12 Hwy & Spencer Lane
Frisco, NC 27936
PO Box 1293
Buxton, NC 27920
daytime phone: (252) 216-7390
Application Date: 2019-01-05
- Please briefly tell us why you are applying to have your apiary be part of the Certified Naturally Grown program. *
- I believe the management of honeybees in the most natural way possible is vital to the long term health of the managed hives. I have managed my hives in a treatment free modality since I started beekeeping. Although I do not currently sell any hive products, I would like to promote the fact that I have produced any products in as natural way as possible if I were to sell any products in the future. Also, there are no CNG apiaries within approx 5 hours of me and I would like to promote that certification in my area.
- Is the land on which your apiary sits currently certified (by CNG or another organization)? *
- Has the land on which your apiary sits ever been Certified in the past? *
- How did you hear about Certified Naturally Grown? *
- My friend, Casey Ostwinch of Honey Tree Farm in Conover NC was recently certified for his produce and suggested I should certify my apiary.
- Please check all markets where you sell your honey. *
- You may use this space to specify where customers can purchase your honey (this will be displayed on your profile to help customers find you).
- I currently do sell honey, but should this change in the future, word of mouth will be my main source of sales.
- How many hives are in your apiary (or apiaries)? *
- Before continuing, please take a moment to review the 5 steps to Apiary Certification. (You may do this by clicking the link below.) Are they clear? *
Apiary Location and Position
- Some beekeepers seek certification for more than one apiary. Please provide the location (or locations) of the apiary (or apiaries) for which you seek certification. *
- My apiary is currently located on a vacant lot at the corner of NC 12 Hwy & Spencer Lane in Frisco, NC. I live in what is primarily a tourist resort area where land prices are high and it is difficult to find places to set up an apiary. There is no agriculture related industry within 75 miles of me.
- Briefly describe the landscape where the apiary is located. What surrounds the apiary? What are the nectar sources? *
- A vacant sandy lot with several small pine trees and live oak trees, the lot is primarily covered with assorted wild grasses and some blackberry brambles. I live on a coastal island, as such there is a large maritime forest with a large part managed as a state conservation area within the bees forage range. There are no agricultural crops anywhere. There is the typical wildflower sources as well as residential lots with clover, dandelions and other flowers. I will be planting beds of pollinator friendly flowers on the property on which I live which is located approx 100 yards from the apiary.
- Do you own or manage the land on which your apiary is located? (If at least one of your apiaries is on land you own or manage, answer yes.) *
- Within each apiary for which you seek certification, do you manage any hives "conventionally", using practices or substances that are not allowed under the CNG apiary standards? *
Hive Construction, Components, and Brood Comb Removal
- Do your hives have any paint or chemical treatment on the interior surface of the hive? *
- Do you have, or will you develop, a labeling system and schedule to ensure removal of at least 20% of brood frame per year, such that there is never brood comb present that is more than 5 years old? *
- Please briefly describe your brood comb removal practices to date, and your plans for the coming seasons. *
- In the past I have kept some "medium" brood boxes, most if not all of those will be transitioning to "deep" boxes this year, as such those frames will be removed as the bees draw out new deep frames. I currently record the year the frames are placed into service so I have a quick visual of how old the frames are and will begin removing the wax from at least 20% of the frames in the brood boxes per year.
- Does your apiary contain brood comb that A) is from another beekeeper (including from purchased nuc), or B) has been exposed to Tylan, or C) has been exposed to three or more treatments of fluvalinate (Apistan, Mavrik) or amitraz (Miticur, Taktic, or Mitak)? *
- Has any wax or comb in your apiary ever been exposed to coumaphos (CheckMite+) or fenpyroximate (Hivastan), or more than six indirect exposures of coumaphos (CheckMite+), hydramethylnon or fipronil (Max Force Gel roach baite) as closed trapping for SHBs?
General Bee Maintenance and Care
- Describe how you maintain your bee population from one season to the next. Do you rely on survivor colonies, incorporate feral colonies, purchase new bees every year, or some combination of these and/or other practices? *
- I have always adhered to a treatment free style of beekeeping and as such try my best to bring as many hives through the winter as possible. Hives that survive the winter are ones I will use to do splits and raise queens from in an attempt to prevent buying packages as much as possible. I have also done a few cutouts in the past and am available for swarm collection.
- Do you sometimes feed the bees when honey supers are on the hive, or within two weeks before honey super addition? *
- If and when your bees require supplemental feeding, what do you feed them? Please be specific and include all ingredients. *
- In response to the above question about feeding while supers are on the hive - I will sometimes in the winter open feed a bucket of at least 2:1, if not 3:1 or 4:1, sugar syrup approx 100 yards from the apiary. There may a honey super on a hive or two during that time, but that honey is never extracted for sell, if at all. If it is extracted, a small amount may be for personal use but the primary use will be to feed back to the bees. We typically have long mild stretches of weather during the winter in which the bees are very active and as such do require additional feed. If not in the winter when I can open the hives, I usually feed through internal feeders, and not while honey supers are present during natural times of nectar flow. When feeding I use white cane sugar mixed in a ratio appropriate for the season. I currently may add tea tree, wintergreen or spearmint essential oils or a combination thereof. This spring I will be experimenting with a homemade "honey b healthy" or "brood builder" recipe of only essential oils and lecithin.
Management of Pests and Disease
- Varroa Mite
- Please briefly describe what measures you take to suppress the Varroa mite population in your hives. *
- I currently follow a "treatment free" style of beekeeping, as such I have never used any chemicals to treat for mites. I live in a fairly remote area and so far have never had what I would consider a true mite problem. If I did feel that I had a mite problem I would probably utilize drone frame trapping and freezing or providing a brood break. I would primarily just encourage the strength and health of the hive naturally to give them the best chance to survive without additional support as I really only want hives that are able to survive without much support.
- How do you monitor mite population levels? When and how often? *
- I do not currently monitor mite levels, instead I encourage them to be as strong and healthy as possible.
- Before treating any hive for Varroa mites, will you monitor the Varroa mite infestation level to determine whether it exceeds the treatment threshold set by your local network? (If you run a survivor colony, and you never treat, please answer Yes.) *
- If you choose to treat colonies infested with Varroa mites, will you keep records of treatment methods, along with pre- and post-treatment monitoring results? *
- American and European Foulbrood
- How do you prevent and treat American Foulbrood (AFB) and European Foulbrood (EFB)? *
- Through good beekeeping practices, including but not limited to sterilization primarily through flame of beekeeping tools.
- How do you prevent and treat Nosema? *
- Healthy and natural beekeeping practices, including the addition of some essential oils in any supplemental feed if provided.
- Other Diseases
- What has been your experience with other diseases (such as chalkbrood, viral diseases, wax moths, small hive beetle)? How have you dealt with them? How will you deal with them if they recur? *
- I have had some wax moth problem in the past and those frames had either the damaged and infected areas cut out and destroyed are whole frames were frozen for several days before being reintroduced back into the hives. I also currently keep entrances reduced year round in an effort to give the bees less entrance area to have to defend. I plan to construct and use some moth traps this year. I have not seen a small hive beetle in any of my hives at this time.
- What measures do you take, if any, to protect the hives against pests such as mice, skunks, possums, raccoons, and bears? *
- Hives are elevated above the ground at a level of at least 2 cinder blocks high. Hives are strapped to those cinder blocks. I have yet to see a pest problem with any of my hives and we do not have bears anywhere around my area.
- Please describe any other practices you follow to help strengthen the bee population under your care.
- Just by following treat free and the best natural practices that I can.
Colonies Engaged in Pollination Services
- Are your colonies engaged in pollination by contract? *
- Are you a part of a local network of beekeepers using natural methods? This could be a formal network like a county beekeepers association, or it could be an informal network of beekeepers in your area with a commitment to using natural methods. *
- If this is a formal network please indicate the name of the network below. (If it is not a formal network, please simply write "informal".) *
- Outer Banks Beekeeping Guild
- If this is an informal network, please indicate below the names of at least two other beekeepers who participate. They do not need to be CNG beekeepers, but they do need to have some commitment to and knowledge of natural practices. (If you're part of a formal network, please simply write "see above") *
- see above
- Please indicate your agreement with the following statements by entering your name/s in the spaces following the statements.
- I/we will only use the Certified Naturally Grown name and label on apiary products (honey, pollen, propolis) that are in fact from the CNG apiaries described in this application. *
- Ken Randall
- I/we understand that CNG beeswax certification is a separate process (not yet available in 2010), and that the basic Apiary Certification doesn't confer CNG status on beeswax. *
- Ken Randall
- I/we understand the CNG work requirements: A) To complete at least one certification inspection of another CNG apiary in my area each year. B) To arrange at least two annual inspections of my/our apiary, to be carried out by qualified inspectors as outlined in CNG informational materials. *
- Ken Randall
- I/we have reviewed the Certified Naturally Grown standards, understand them, and will abide by them. I/we understand that if I/we have any questions I/we may contact CNG for clarification. *
- Ken Randall
- You may use this space to tell us anything else you think we should know about your farm: