Produce Application

No Spray Hawaii

Owner: Laura Rieber

P.O. Box 6624
Hilo, HI 96720
Hawaii County

daytime phone: (808) 214-2255
Web site:

Application Date: 2017-04-25

Applicant Details

Please briefly tell us why you are applying to be part of the Certified Naturally Grown program: *
To be different than USDA Organic and a part of those across the country who believe in nutritious food and healthy soil for the future. The products that we create from what we are growing are increasing in popularity and we feel that a certification of this magnitude will help increase awareness that there is a difference between natural and industrial organic farms. We do not use any chemicals, tractors, tillers, synthetic nutrients or other farm aids (GMO) to grow nutritious foods. We do not believe in the USDA organic certification due to the allowance of chemicals to be sprayed on crops including BT and roundup as a means to control weeds around the farm.
Are you currently third party Certified for your produce operation by any other organization (Organic, Biodynamic, etc)? *
Have you ever been certified in the past? *
Have you ever been denied certification? *
How did you hear about Certified Naturally Grown? *

General Farm Information

Farm Acreage you want listed as Certified Naturally GrownTM:
Total Farm Acreage you actually GROW on: *
Number of above acreage that you own: *
Number of above acreage that you lease: *
Do you have other acreage in "Conventional" Agricultural Systems? *
General Listed Acreage Breakdown
Veg Crops:
1 1/2
Fruit Crops:
Other Acreage:
Please check all items you grow and will market as Certified Naturally GrownTM *

Please Specify Any Other Items:
turmeric rhizomes, vanilla orchid
Please check all markets you grow for (this will be displayed on your farm profile to help potential buyers find you). *

Please Specify Other Markets:

Farmland Management and Practices

Primary Tillage System: *
By hand with a shovel and occasional pick ax to break up clay chunks. We only till one time as we construct the raised bed and break up the compacted clay from past use of tractors. From then on, we mimic nature and only add to the soil from the top.
Do you use Cover Crops? *
If yes, please list: *
pigeon peas, beans, new Zealand spinach, grasses, Okinawa sweet potato, what ever is growing, our soils are never exposed..... everything growing is either food for the animals or compost pile
Do you use Compost? *
If yes, please note general sources (on farm, purchased complete, local grass clippings, local dairy, etc.): *
on farm. We have piles of compost made from invasive species, cut grass and vermacompost from earthworm troughs.
Please list application rates. Give a specific amount or range (for example: one to two tons per acre, ten wheelbarrow loads per 1,000 square feet, or 1-2 inches deep). Do not answer "varies". *
1 inch across entire bed prior to mulching. + 1 handful of compost at root zone for every plant planted
Do you use Manure? *
If yes, please note general sources (local dairy, horse farm, etc.): *
On farm - rabbit manure
Please list application rates. Give a specific amount or range (for example: one to two tons per acre, ten wheelbarrow loads per 1,000 square feet, or 1-2 inches deep). Do not answer "varies". *
small handful at root zone for every plant planted + broadcast less than 1
What time of year do you apply the manure? *
at planting.
Do you apply any non-composted Manure within 120 days of veg-crop harvesting? *
Please list any other brought in fertility sources that you use (specific rock powders, lime, soybean / alfalfa meal, specific purchased pre-mixes, etc)and how often it's used. If you indicate a name brand product, please also specify the ingredient/s. *
For the first three years of our ecosystem development we added in a handful of the following minerals in equal parts at the root zone of every plant we planted. This prevented leaching and pollution. Due to past agriculture practices of utilizing tractors and tillers on lands with a slope, there was less than a 1/2 inch of top soil when we started. The land is clay with no rocks, minerals or deep soil. We added in the following minerals: Down to Earth Rock Phosphate Down to Earth Langbeinite Organic Dolomite Lime Calcium Carbonate Kelp Meal
Have any chemical fertilizers been applied to the fields you are seeking Certification for in the last three years (36 months)? *
Have any non-acceptable pesticides and/or herbicides been applied to these fields in the last 3 years? *
Do you use Professional Soil Testing services? *
Describe your primary weed problems AND methods of control. Do not answer "none". You MUST indicate either actual weed challenges and/or LIKELY challenges, and you must ALSO indicate how you manage (or would manage) them. If you indicate a product, also specify how often it's used. *
Many would consider that the grass is our weeds. Our control: continual mulching. (Mulching to us is an adjective rather than a nown). Weeds grow on bare soils in the tropics. where we don't want these plants that grow on bare soils to grow, we keep our beds mulched with carbon rich materials including invasive species leaves and the leaves of the ice cream bean pod that we planted for use as a mulching crop.
Describe your primary insect challenges AND methods of control. Do not answer "none". You MUST indicate either actual pest challenges and/or LIKELY challenges, and you must ALSO indicate how you manage (or would manage) them. If you indicate a product, also specify how often it's used. *
Although insects can be a pest, to perceive it as so when growing food, is to not understand that there is a lack of balance in the present ecosystem. Rather than having "pest" on our farm, we have immature gardens needing time to attract predators and mulch to increase ecosystem and promote a natural check and balance system. A primary method of control is planting perennials around annuals, continually mulching and focus on soil health.
Describe your primary disease challenges AND methods of control. Do not answer "none". You MUST indicate either actual disease challenges and/or LIKELY challenges, and you must ALSO indicate how you manage (or would manage) them. If you indicate a product, also specify how often it's used. *
dampening off, powdery mildew, fungus, etc. Our primary control for diseases is to increase our soil health and ecosystem as to naturally be able to ward off diseases. We limit the amount of control we need as growers and understand that to succeed we need to grow what grows well. If we have a plant that is continually susceptible to a disease in our location we will not continue to grow it.
Please list the water source you use for crop irrigation. If source is public river, pond or lake, please note the name: *
We live in an extremely moist valley in Hawaii. Irrigation is not the issue for our location. The overabundance of rain is. During dry times we rely on our ecosystem and continual additions of mulch to prevent evaporation and keep our plants in the garden beds watered. We use rain water collection for our sprouts that are above ground in sprouting tables. These collections are refilled at least once a week, sometimes daily, depending upon the weather. We deal with too much rain, rather than too little. We also have a river that surrounds the property, so if we were in dire need we could use the river water. During times of overabundance of rain, we rely on the mulch to protect our soils, plants and microbial life below.
Are there any known contaminants in the irrigation water? *
Are you a maple producer who seeks to certify your sugarbush? *

Seeds, Transplants and Buffers

Do you purchase or grow using any Genetically Modified seeds? *
Do you use any chemically treated seeds in your operation? *
Do you grow your own transplants? *
Are they grown using Naturally Grown/Organic methods? *
If they're not grown according to CNG methods, please list them here. This produce may not be sold as Certified Naturally Grown. (If they are, put "N/A") *
Do you purchase any transplants from outside sources? *
Chemical/Spray Drift and Buffers:
Is there any likelihood of Chemical/Spray drift contamination of your fields? *
Do you have an adequate buffer to protect yourself from potential contamination? *
Please describe your buffer. Be as specific as possible. On all sides, how far is it from your crops to the next closest use (road, conventional crop, residential yard)? Be sure to specify what is grown on neighboring land that is in agricultural use. For example: To the north and east, a wooded area of at least 100 yards separates us from the neighbor's corn fields, to the south is a fallow field at least 100 yards deep separating us from the road, and to the west about 60 feet separates our crops from a field where conventional corn and soybeans are grown. *
We live surrounded by two streams. There is a 70+ foot mountain on one side covered by 60 year old lychee and mango trees. The hill drops on the other side to a river and our neighbor is a certified organic farm. The other side of the property and across the river is a dense jungle of invasive species reaching heights of 70+ feet. The properties that back the jungle are residential with little agriculture use. We are in the valley right smack dab in the middle of this. The back of the property goes one mile back and is a thick jungle.


Please indicate your agreement with the following statements by checking the boxes.
I will not label, or in any way lead consumers to believe that produce not raised in accord with CNG standards is Certified Naturally GrownTM. *
I understand that I have to complete at least one (and hopefully more) Certification Inspection(s) of another farm in my area each year, and that the inspection will NOT be of the same farmer that inspected me. *
I have reviewed the Certified Naturally Grown certification standards, I understand them, and I will abide by them. I understand that if I have any questions I may contact CNG for clarification. *
You may use this space to tell us anything else you think we should know about your farm:
With a degree in sustainable agriculture from the University of Hawaii, Hilo, I feel that I have a duty to showcase alternative to the chemicals being used to grow food on the Hawaii Island. Rather than getting a "job" in the field, I became a grower with my partner of 10 years. We showcase alternative solution, teach classes, develop natural agriculture training courses and have created a series of easy to understand principles that have been really helping people get started growing chemical free food. Due to the allowance of chemicals under the USDA organic act, I can not feel good being certified by them. Our farm, No Spray Hawaii was a start of a desire to create a certification process very much like this. By the people, for the people, while helping out the growers who want to change, yet don't know how. I rather join forces, than start from scratch.