Moon on the Mountain FarmOwner: Patricia Stephenson
2927 Warm Springs Rd
Shenandoah Junction, WV 25442
PO Box 1222
Shepherdstown, WV 25443
daytime phone: (301) 908-4585
evening phone: (301) 908-4585
Application Date: 2016-12-19
- Please briefly tell us why you are applying to be part of the Certified Naturally Grown program: *
- I am a small grower in business since 2012 running a CSA of about 20 families and partcipating in farmers markets. I have always followed the USDA organic standard. I either meet or exceed it. I have not sought USDA organic certification because it is just so expensive and it is not tailored to the needs of small growers/producers like me. Each year I try to improve the operation in terms of efficiency, quality, sustainability and profitability. This year (2016) I took the GAP training. Becoming Certified Naturally Grown is an important next step for me.
- Are you currently third party Certified for your produce operation by any other organization (Organic, Biodynamic, etc)? *
- Have you ever been certified in the past? *
- Have you ever been denied certification? *
- How did you hear about Certified Naturally Grown? *
- Read about it in Mother Earth News.
General Farm Information
- Farm Acreage you want listed as Certified Naturally GrownTM:
- Total Farm Acreage you actually GROW on: *
- 1 acre (farm is total 8 acres)
- Number of above acreage that you own: *
- 1 acre
- Number of above acreage that you lease: *
- Do you have other acreage in "Conventional" Agricultural Systems? *
- General Listed Acreage Breakdown
- Veg Crops:
- Fruit Crops:
- Other Acreage:
- 7 pasture
- Please check all items you grow and will market as Certified Naturally GrownTM *
- Please Specify Any Other Items:
- The flowers for which I will seek certification are edibles grown in the 1 acre field noted above. Ornamental flowers grown in other areas of the farm will not be certified. I will make a distinction using signs at farmers markets that fruits, vegetables and edible flowers are CNG (and that flower bouquets are not).
- Please check all markets you grow for (this will be displayed on your farm profile to help potential buyers find you). *
- Please Specify Other Markets:
Farmland Management and Practices
- Primary Tillage System: *
- Raised beds constructed of untreated oak fence boards and untreated pine 2x4s. Weed suppression at the bottom is achieved with recycled cardboard (plastic tape removed as much as possible) or builders' kraft paper. 20 year Nurseryman's landscape cloth is stapled to the inside to reduce soil loss between the boards. A drip irrigation system is employed throughout.
- Do you use Cover Crops? *
- Do you use Compost? *
- If yes, please note general sources (on farm, purchased complete, local grass clippings, local dairy, etc.): *
- Purchased leaf compost produced in Montgomery County Maryland under the trade name LeafGro and sold as an organic product. I use this as my primary growing medium amended with blood and bone meal plus an organic source of potash and other minerals. For more detailed information on amendments and inputs see below.
- Please list application rates. Give a specific amount or range (for example: one to two tons per acre, ten wheelbarrow loads per 1,000 square feet, or 1-2 inches deep). Do not answer "varies". *
- Do you use Manure? *
- Please list any other brought in fertility sources that you use (specific rock powders, lime, soybean / alfalfa meal, specific purchased pre-mixes, etc)and how often it's used. If you indicate a name brand product, please also specify the ingredient/s. *
- In the beds where I grow produce I do not use manure. I use commercial organic fertilizers: Espoma blood meal, bone meal, Tomato Tone, Plant Tone and Garden Tone Greenway Biotech blood meal and bone meal Azomite (source of potash K20, Mg, Ca, Cl, Na) Tomato Tone contains (from label):Hydrolyzed Feather Meal, Pasteurized Poultry Manure, Bone Meal, Alfalfa Meal, Greensand,Humates, Sulfate of Potash, and Gypsum. Garden Tone contains (from label):Hydrolyzed Feather Meal, Pasteurized Poultry Manure, Bone Meal, Alfalfa Meal, Greensand, Humates, Sulfate of Potash, and Sulfate of Potash Magnesia. Plant Tone contains (from label): Hydrolyzed Feather Meal, Pasteurized Poultry Manure, Bone Meal, Alfalfa Meal, Greensand, Humates,Sulfate of Potash, and Sulfate of Potash Magnesia.
- Have any chemical fertilizers been applied to the fields you are seeking Certification for in the last three years (36 months)? *
- Have any non-acceptable pesticides and/or herbicides been applied to these fields in the last 3 years? *
- Do you use Professional Soil Testing services? *
- Describe your primary weed problems AND methods of control. Do not answer "none". You MUST indicate either actual weed challenges and/or LIKELY challenges, and you must ALSO indicate how you manage (or would manage) them. If you indicate a product, also specify how often it's used. *
- Weed seeds blow in from nearby pastures. Mostly I weed raised beds by hand. I plant intensively which suppresses weeds in beds where food is grown. I use 20 year nursery landscape cloth on paths between beds and between rows of berry bushes, and a hoe to clear weeds that pop up on paths. I use horticultural vinegar around fence lines of pastures to suppress weeds under electric fences.
- Describe your primary insect challenges AND methods of control. Do not answer "none". You MUST indicate either actual pest challenges and/or LIKELY challenges, and you must ALSO indicate how you manage (or would manage) them. If you indicate a product, also specify how often it's used. *
- I have a problem with Japanese beetles, June bugs, Colorado potato beetles, flea beetles, stick bugs, squash beetles, cabbage and leaf hoppers. I removed all grapevines which seemed to help discourage Japanese beetles. I also pick them off berry bushes into warm soapy water. Same with potato beetles. I had far fewer stink bugs last year than the year before. It may be that birds have started to like them. I use only OMRI listed insecticides according to direction. I have used in the past spinosad, BT, garlic/pepper homemade spray, and a spray made from sesame oil and lecithin. Spinosad has been effective for control of flea beetles and Colorado potato beetles. BT has helped with worms on cabbages and broccoli. Other plants that are susceptible to damage in the spring (e.g. arugula, kale) are no longer susceptible in fall so I have adjusted planting schedules. My biggest problem last year was squash beetles which didn't respond to anything. To discourage pests generally I use garlic and pepper spray, compost tea, companion plants, rotation, soil health, intensive planting, timed planting, weed removal, row covers and maintain a watering/irrigation schedule so that plants stay strong. I have lots of good bugs around such as praying mantises.
- Describe your primary disease challenges AND methods of control. Do not answer "none". You MUST indicate either actual disease challenges and/or LIKELY challenges, and you must ALSO indicate how you manage (or would manage) them. If you indicate a product, also specify how often it's used. *
- The biggest problem is some sort of blight on tomatoes. I am going to try compostable paper row covers this year. Mostly I've done nothing so far but let the plants fight back.
- Please list the water source you use for crop irrigation. If source is public river, pond or lake, please note the name: *
- Drip irrigation from a well.
- Are there any known contaminants in the irrigation water? *
- Are you a maple producer who seeks to certify your sugarbush? *
Seeds, Transplants and Buffers
- Do you purchase or grow using any Genetically Modified seeds? *
- Do you use any chemically treated seeds in your operation? *
- Do you grow your own transplants? *
- Are they grown using Naturally Grown/Organic methods? *
- If they're not grown according to CNG methods, please list them here. This produce may not be sold as Certified Naturally Grown. (If they are, put "N/A") *
- Do you purchase any transplants from outside sources? *
- Chemical/Spray Drift and Buffers:
- Is there any likelihood of Chemical/Spray drift contamination of your fields? *
- Do you have an adequate buffer to protect yourself from potential contamination? *
- Please describe your buffer. Be as specific as possible. On all sides, how far is it from your crops to the next closest use (road, conventional crop, residential yard)? Be sure to specify what is grown on neighboring land that is in agricultural use. For example: To the north and east, a wooded area of at least 100 yards separates us from the neighbor's corn fields, to the south is a fallow field at least 100 yards deep separating us from the road, and to the west about 60 feet separates our crops from a field where conventional corn and soybeans are grown. *
- To the east is a residential property. There is a buffer of sheep pasture of at least two acres between that house, the road and the growing space. To the southeast and south are my pastures. To the south west there is a horse farm -- buffer area is at least 500 ft. To the north is a residential property but I have never observed spraying and I have a stand of trees separating my land from the nearest property. To the west there is another tree line and beyond it 200 acres of cattle grazing and hunting land.
- Please indicate your agreement with the following statements by checking the boxes.
- I will not label, or in any way lead consumers to believe that produce not raised in accord with CNG standards is Certified Naturally GrownTM. *
- I understand that I have to complete at least one (and hopefully more) Certification Inspection(s) of another farm in my area each year, and that the inspection will NOT be of the same farmer that inspected me. *
- I have reviewed the Certified Naturally Grown certification standards, I understand them, and I will abide by them. I understand that if I have any questions I may contact CNG for clarification. *
- You may use this space to tell us anything else you think we should know about your farm: