Sun Love FarmOwner: Melissa Streng
15030 S. Brunner Rd.
Oregon City, OR 97045
daytime phone: (914) 536-1024
evening phone: (914) 536-1024
Web site: http://www.sunlovefarm.com
Application Date: 2015-04-17
- Please briefly tell us why you are applying to be part of the Certified Naturally Grown program: *
- I am a small grower who is passionate about using the most sustainable and organic practices there are, always putting the greater concern for the land, soil, and insect health over cheap production. That being said, the prospect of becoming certified organic is daunting and expensive, hence I would like to be part of CNG to be able to easily show customers that their food and the land on which it was grown is exceptionally healthy.
- Are you currently third party Certified for your produce operation by any other organization (Organic, Biodynamic, etc)? *
- Have you ever been certified in the past? *
- Have you ever been denied certification? *
- How did you hear about Certified Naturally Grown? *
- I have heard about it through the farmer grape vine and have seen farmers with CNG certification at market.
- How did you learn to farm, and for how long have you been farming for market? What has prepared you to farm successfully according to CNG standards? *
General Farm Information
- Farm Acreage you want listed as Certified Naturally GrownTM:
- Total Farm Acreage you actually GROW on: *
- Number of above acreage that you own: *
- Number of above acreage that you lease: *
- Do you have other acreage in "Conventional" Agricultural Systems? *
- General Listed Acreage Breakdown
- Veg Crops:
- Fruit Crops:
- Other Acreage:
- Please check all items you grow and will market as Certified Naturally GrownTM *
- Please Specify Any Other Items:
- Please check all markets you grow for (this will be displayed on your farm profile to help potential buyers find you). *
- Please Specify Other Markets:
Farmland Management and Practices
- Primary Tillage System: *
- I am in the process of creating a permanent raised bed system. Beds are initially made into raised beds with the use of a rotary plow. Then the secondary till is done with a power harrow, which creates a seed bed without disturbing the soil like a tiller.
- Do you use Cover Crops? *
- If yes, please list: *
- My mix of covercrop can change on a yearly basis, but I expect that this year it will be a mic of austrian peas, vetch, and oats.
- Do you use Compost? *
- Do you use Manure? *
- If yes, please note general sources (local dairy, horse farm, etc.): *
- While I will not consistently be using manure, we have some leftover from the previous cattle operation (1 year old manure) that will be incorporated into beds, and we have a flock of ducks who are let onto spent crops to eat what remains and spread their fertilizing manure.
- Please list application rates. Give a specific amount or range (for example: one to two tons per acre, ten wheelbarrow loads per 1,000 square feet, or 1-2 inches deep). Do not answer "varies". *
- What time of year do you apply the manure? *
- Do you apply any non-composted Manure within 120 days of veg-crop harvesting? *
- Please list any other brought in fertility sources that you use (specific rock powders, lime, soybean / alfalfa meal, specific purchased pre-mixes, etc)and how often it's used. If you indicate a name brand product, please also specify the ingredient/s. *
- Our field has been limed with dolomite, and I use chicken feather meal for additional nitrogen, along with potassium sulfate (Allganic potassium, OMRI). Approximately 8 pounds of feather meal are put onto each 150 ft x 30 inch bed before planting, with the exception of root crops, which receive little to none. Tomatoes are given additional lime to prevent blossom end rot. The potassium is put on only once in every 5 years, as it degrades very slowly in our Woodburn silt soil.
- Have any chemical fertilizers been applied to the fields you are seeking Certification for in the last three years (36 months)? *
- Have any non-acceptable pesticides and/or herbicides been applied to these fields in the last 3 years? *
- Do you use Professional Soil Testing services? *
- Describe your primary weed problems AND methods of control. Do not answer "none". You MUST indicate either actual weed challenges and/or LIKELY challenges, and you must ALSO indicate how you manage (or would manage) them. If you indicate a product, also specify how often it's used. *
- The best weed method that I know of is to get them when their small, or when they are not even visible yet. Much time is saved when weeds are taken care of at a young stage. A problem that I will likely have this year as I plow under pasture is grass. I will likely have to physically remove some grass from my fields with the help of carts. My collection of hoes and wheel hoe will be excellent at helping me to remove the grass and any other weeds that come up. I would like to experiment with using flame weeders and using giant black tarps in the future for weed management.
- Describe your primary insect challenges AND methods of control. Do not answer "none". You MUST indicate either actual pest challenges and/or LIKELY challenges, and you must ALSO indicate how you manage (or would manage) them. If you indicate a product, also specify how often it's used. *
- I have a fungus gnat problem in my greenhouse, which I will be solving by catching them with a potato trap, yellow sticky traps, and apple cider vinegar traps. It is likely that flea beetles will be a problem. I am going to invest in insect covering to prevent the flea beetles from getting to the crops. I also plant a wide variety of flowers to attract beneficial predatory insects will feed on flea beetles and other problem insects. that Slugs may be a problem. Keeping the fields as well weeded as possible will get rid of slug habitat.
- Describe your primary disease challenges AND methods of control. Do not answer "none". You MUST indicate either actual disease challenges and/or LIKELY challenges, and you must ALSO indicate how you manage (or would manage) them. If you indicate a product, also specify how often it's used. *
- I grow a bounty of tomatoes, and it is likely that they will get a late blight in our often wet late Septembers. Keeping the plants well pruned, well staked, and with ample airflow with help to prevent the blight. Using drip irrigation tape will also help to prevent unnecessary blight-inducing moisture. Powdery Mildew, fusarium or verticilium may become problems in the future. I may choose to use a biological control such as trichoderma harzianum, although additional research into the specifics of the disease problem with be necessary before using any product.
- Please list the water source you use for crop irrigation. If source is public river, pond or lake, please note the name: *
- Clackamas River Public Water
- Are there any known contaminants in the irrigation water? *
- Are you a maple producer who seeks to certify your sugarbush? *
Seeds, Transplants and Buffers
- How do you select your seeds? CNG standards call for growers to make a good faith effort to locate organically grown seeds by contacting at least 3 major suppliers. *
- Do you purchase or grow using any Genetically Modified seeds? *
- Do you use any chemically treated seeds in your operation? *
- Do you grow your own transplants? *
- Do you purchase potting soil, or do you mix your own on the farm? *
- What ingredients does your potting mix contain? If you purchase a mix, please also indicate which product. *
- Are all of your transplants grown according to CNG standards, without synthetic fertilizers or wetting agents? *
- If any transplants are not grown according to CNG standards, please list them here. (If they all are, put "N/A".) This produce may not be marketed as Certified Naturally Grown. *
- Do you purchase any transplants from outside sources? *
- Chemical/Spray Drift and Buffers:
- Is there any likelihood of Chemical/Spray drift contamination of your fields? *
- Do you have an adequate buffer to protect yourself from potential contamination? *
- Please describe your buffer. Be as specific as possible. On all sides, how far is it from your crops to the next closest use (road, conventional crop, residential yard)? Be sure to specify what is grown on neighboring land that is in agricultural use. For example: To the north and east, a wooded area of at least 100 yards separates us from the neighbor's corn fields, to the south is a fallow field at least 100 yards deep separating us from the road, and to the west about 60 feet separates our crops from a field where conventional corn and soybeans are grown. *
- To the east, south, and west there is no conventional agriculture or roads. To the north there is a christmas tree farm with a 40 foot buffer to the road. They spray using a tractor that sprays very closely to the ground directly beneath. They have only sprayed on days without wind and it truly seems that whatever they are spraying is staying on their land rather than migrating over to mine.
- Please indicate your agreement with the following statements by checking the boxes.
- I will not label, or in any way lead consumers to believe that produce not raised in accord with CNG standards is Certified Naturally GrownTM. *
- I understand that I have to complete at least one (and hopefully more) Certification Inspection(s) of another farm in my area each year, and that the inspection will NOT be of the same farmer that inspected me. *
- I have reviewed the Certified Naturally Grown certification standards, I understand them, and I will abide by them. I understand that if I have any questions I may contact CNG for clarification. *
- You may use this space to tell us anything else you think we should know about your farm: