Apiary Application

Honeybee Keep

Owner: Donald Studinski

4170 Plum Creek Drive
Loveland, CO 80538
Larimer County

Mailing Address:
PO Box 1315
Loveland, CO 80039

daytime phone: (303) 248-6677
Web site: http://www.HoneybeeKeep.com

Application Date: 2013-02-23

General Information

Please briefly tell us why you are applying to have your apiary be part of the Certified Naturally Grown program. *
We are promoting community sufficiency, self-sufficiency at the community level. We are teaching chemical free beekeeping. The CNG philosophy seems like a good match. The word "organic" doesn't really fit well with honeybees.
Is the land on which your apiary sits currently certified (by CNG or another organization)? *
Has the land on which your apiary sits ever been Certified in the past? *
How did you hear about Certified Naturally Grown? *
I don't remember. It's been part of my thinking for several years now.
Please check all markets where you sell your honey. *

You may use this space to specify where customers can purchase your honey (this will be displayed on your profile to help customers find you).
Honeybee Keep produces "Slow Honey" in the spirit of Slow Food and Slow Money. The name was specifically chosen as a hat tip to Woody Tash and Slow Money. It is used with permission from Woody. We seek to make human connections with our customers. Find our contact information at www.honeybeekeep.com. As we grow, there may be other outlets for our honey, bees and wax. We will want to connect with vendors that emphasize the benefit of local trade.
How many hives are in your apiary (or apiaries)? *
Before continuing, please take a moment to review the 5 steps to Apiary Certification. (You may do this by clicking the link below.) Are they clear? *

Apiary Location and Position

Some beekeepers seek certification for more than one apiary. Please provide the location (or locations) of the apiary (or apiaries) for which you seek certification. *
Living Systems Institute 14020 W. 32nd Ave Golden, CO 80401 Cottonwood Farm 900 69th St Boulder, CO 80026
Briefly describe the landscape where the apiary is located. What surrounds the apiary? What are the nectar sources? *
LSI is situated amid suburban housing. A bird sanctuary golf course is nearby. Nectar comes from whatever citizens are choosing to grow. Immediately on the LSI property is organically grown gardens. Cottonwood Farm is situated in suburban horse country. Very large properties, some growing crops like alfalfa. A creek runs nearby with many Russian Olives growing along the creek.
Do you own or manage the land on which your apiary is located? (If at least one of your apiaries is on land you own or manage, answer yes.) *
Within each apiary for which you seek certification, do you manage any hives "conventionally", using practices or substances that are not allowed under the CNG apiary standards? *

Hive Construction, Components, and Brood Comb Removal

Do your hives have any paint or chemical treatment on the interior surface of the hive? *
Do you have, or will you develop, a labeling system and schedule to ensure removal of at least 20% of brood frame per year, such that there is never brood comb present that is more than 5 years old? *
Please briefly describe your brood comb removal practices to date, and your plans for the coming seasons. *
Comb removal is conducted on a 4th year at first inspection of that year. For Lang, I use 3 deeps. At first inspection, mid March, the bottom deep is always empty of living bees. That comb is removed at that time. For top bar, comb is removed at harvest and frames are shifted such that comb will eventually be in the remove position. For Warre, the top deep is removed at harvest and the comb is eliminated at that time. New deeps are added at bottom such that they will eventually be in top position for removal. This entire brood comb removal concept is under review by me, and should be under review by all beekeepers based on recent Bee Informed data showing that beekeepers that DO NOT eliminate comb are experiencing LESS loss than beekeepers that do. I will continue my practices while also keeping an open mind about new information that may suggest my practices are not the best choice.

Apiary Transition

Does your apiary contain brood comb that A) is from another beekeeper (including from purchased nuc), or B) has been exposed to Tylan, or C) has been exposed to three or more treatments of fluvalinate (Apistan, Mavrik) or amitraz (Miticur, Taktic, or Mitak)? *
Has any wax or comb in your apiary ever been exposed to coumaphos (CheckMite+) or fenpyroximate (Hivastan), or more than six indirect exposures of coumaphos (CheckMite+), hydramethylnon or fipronil (Max Force Gel roach baite) as closed trapping for SHBs?

General Bee Maintenance and Care

Describe how you maintain your bee population from one season to the next. Do you rely on survivor colonies, incorporate feral colonies, purchase new bees every year, or some combination of these and/or other practices? *
My primary maintenance is through split of survivor stock. I also collect swarms. I am selling nucs. I do not purchase bees.
Do you sometimes feed the bees when honey supers are on the hive, or within two weeks before honey super addition? *
If and when your bees require supplemental feeding, what do you feed them? Please be specific and include all ingredients. *
Hard Candy: Pure Cane Sugar Glucose Salt Vinegar MegaBee powder See my recipe in Bee Culture, September, 2012.

Management of Pests and Disease

Varroa Mite
Please briefly describe what measures you take to suppress the Varroa mite population in your hives. *
I do not suppress the Varroa mites. I always assume mites are present. Stock exhibiting traits I want to continue are split such that daughters can continue those traits. Mother is assumed lost to the mites. When mother survives, unexpectedly, more daughters are created to ensure the line is continued.
How do you monitor mite population levels? When and how often? *
I never test for mites. My bees must survive in the presence of mites. I seek survivor stock. This is one of my main objectives. It is much more important than honey harvest.
Before treating any hive for Varroa mites, will you monitor the Varroa mite infestation level to determine whether it exceeds the treatment threshold set by your local network? (If you run a survivor colony, and you never treat, please answer Yes.) *
If you choose to treat colonies infested with Varroa mites, will you keep records of treatment methods, along with pre- and post-treatment monitoring results? *
American and European Foulbrood
How do you prevent and treat American Foulbrood (AFB) and European Foulbrood (EFB)? *
I have never seen AFB or EFB, however, should I see AFB I would burn the entire hive such that no chances of spread are tolerated. Should I ever see EFB, the bees would have to survive on their own. I would isolate the hive in a remote yard to prevent spread.
How do you prevent and treat Nosema? *
I do not treat. When I see symptoms, I usually replace the bottom board with a clean bottom board. Other than that, the bees must survive on their own. In this case, I don't even move the hive to isolate it. My bees must survive without chemicals.
Other Diseases
What has been your experience with other diseases (such as chalkbrood, viral diseases, wax moths, small hive beetle)? How have you dealt with them? How will you deal with them if they recur? *
Chalkbrood runs it course, no treatment is necessary. Wax moths are a normal part of nature's clean up process. I try to beat them to the comb. But beat them or not, I will generally melt the comb into wax to be sold. We do not have SHB in Colorado. Concerning viral diseases, my bees must survive without treatment. No chemicals. No acids. No essential oils. Nothing. This is why I can get a premium price for my wax and honey.
What measures do you take, if any, to protect the hives against pests such as mice, skunks, possums, raccoons, and bears? *
I use mouse guards made of 1/2 inch hardware cloth. When a mouse beats me. It usually kills the colony. I use electric fence when vulnerable to bears. I use carpet tack on the rare occasion I need to discourage a skunk or whatever.
Please describe any other practices you follow to help strengthen the bee population under your care.
The timing of splits is important. Early spring splits are for colony increase. Early fall splits are for mite control.

Colonies Engaged in Pollination Services

Are your colonies engaged in pollination by contract? *
Are any crops on the land contracted for pollination managed with the use of synthetic fertilizers, pesticides, herbicides and fungicides during time of pollination or for the three months prior? *
Do you agree to obtain a signed contract with the crop producer specifying that for the entire time the land is occupied by the bee colonies and for the three months prior, no prohibited pesticides herbicides or fungicides will be used? *
Are any of your colonies moved more than three times per calendar year for purposes of pollination? *

Local Networks

Are you a part of a local network of beekeepers using natural methods? This could be a formal network like a county beekeepers association, or it could be an informal network of beekeepers in your area with a commitment to using natural methods. *
If this is a formal network please indicate the name of the network below. (If it is not a formal network, please simply write "informal".) *
If this is an informal network, please indicate below the names of at least two other beekeepers who participate. They do not need to be CNG beekeepers, but they do need to have some commitment to and knowledge of natural practices. (If you're part of a formal network, please simply write "see above") *
David Whitehead Ruth Rinehart


Please indicate your agreement with the following statements by entering your name/s in the spaces following the statements.
I/we will only use the Certified Naturally Grown name and label on apiary products (honey, pollen, propolis) that are in fact from the CNG apiaries described in this application. *
Donald Studinski
I/we understand that CNG beeswax certification is a separate process (not yet available in 2010), and that the basic Apiary Certification doesn't confer CNG status on beeswax. *
Donald Studinski
I/we understand the CNG work requirements: A) To complete at least one certification inspection of another CNG apiary in my area each year. B) To arrange at least two annual inspections of my/our apiary, to be carried out by qualified inspectors as outlined in CNG informational materials. *
Donald Studinski
I/we have reviewed the Certified Naturally Grown standards, understand them, and will abide by them. I/we understand that if I/we have any questions I/we may contact CNG for clarification. *
Donald Studinski
You may use this space to tell us anything else you think we should know about your farm: